Automatic or Quartz, Which Is The Right Choice For Me?

I wanna buy my first rep watch, and i think its going to be a Tag Heuer Aquaracer, but im not so sure about the quartz vs automatic thing. I have read that quartz is the more "simple" version, but automatic is more like old school. Are there any problems with the one over the other? Does the automatic versions last or will i get problems with all the winding?
Thanks!

I'm looking to get a nice watch for myself to celebrate some personal milestones that I've hit in my life. I'm a woman with quite small wrists, so that limits my choices a fair amount since a lot of the popular choices here (e.g. Orient Bambino) are just a bit too big for my liking on my wrist. For my budget, I've narrowed down my choices to either a Tissot Carson Premium Lady (Quartz) or a Tissot Le Locle Automatic Lady
I've tried them both on in store and am more drawn towards the Le Locle, mainly due to the unique textured dial and the fact that it's an automatic really appeals to me. But I do have some anxiety around owning an automatic watch. I've read around the sub for advice on caring for an automatic, and automatics vs quartz watches but still am torn on whether getting an automatic is advisable for a first time watch-owner. For some context, I don't live a rough, active lifestyle - I work an office job and don't wear watches to workouts or anything like that, plus this is a watch I intend to wear every day to work. Here are some questions I have :

1. Based on what I've read, can I expect that I wouldn't need to service it more than maybe once every 5 years?
2. How often would I need to do a "full service" of the watch as opposed to just a maintenance/partial service?
3. If I'm wearing it most days, would I still need to wind it up by hand once in a while?

Thank you!

TL;DR in the end.
While continuing with the ever-stopping search for the perfect watch and piece to the collection, I started to dig around a little bit about the Grand Seiko – timepieces that I had seen from time-to-time here (how can you not like the snowflake?) but were not very drawn to until recently. Since I’ve been looking for a gift for myself to commemorate my graduation and masters and spending quite some time here and on other forums just surfing and snooping around looking for the best piece to add. And since Black Bay 58 is not yet available (I’ve been on the list for four months now) up until next spring as evaluated by my AD I was hoping to catch something else for the time being.
While walking around and just going through the AD’s a week ago, I finally had the courage to go and check the Grand Seiko’s they had and was absolutely drawn to them: the finishing, styling and overall look were somethings that I was drawn to immediately. Especially one piece caught my attention: the SBGN005 with its beautiful blue dial, and the red GMT hand. We had a quick chat with the sales rep and he was very helpful but I ended up leaving since I’m not ready to make such large investments without sleeping on it for a night or two. I started to watch some reviews about the watch and Grand Seiko overall. While still drawn to it, I was starting to get a bit hesitant with reading mostly the comments and other people’s opinions about not the watch itself, but about the 9F movement it held inside. Of course, 3300€ (or 2800€ that I was quoted) is a lot of money, not only for a watch, but especially for a one with a quartz movement.
I’m a sucker for automatic movements as any other guy here and it actually got me thinking about why I like my watches and what makes them valuable to me. The 9F is a superb piece of engineering work with top grade finishing but still I’m a bit hesitant on actually pulling the trigger on this piece. I’m still very tempted and love the design and looks but still something is holding me back – someone might even call it watch movement snobbery? But then I started to think about the value and pleasure that a watch brings to me, what is the actual value proposition for which I’m willing to invest my hard-earned money for. And I realized that maybe the movement itself is something that I’m too focused on and falling under the fallacy of thinking that only mechanical watches are real watches.
After all, I’m not looking to build the most extensive and expensive collection but I would be pretty much set with three pieces: my current Hamilton (with ETA-2824) as a daily “beater”, the SBGN005, and of course with the BB58 once they come more available and I have the funds for it – be it next or in five years – since now I understand that for me the movement itself is not an important for me as I previously thought. And since I like to tie these watches to certain life events or achievements, the sentimental value of these pieces is always going to be way more than the monetary value.
Bu what the community here thinks? For example, comparing the quartz offerings from Grand Seiko to an automatic Black Bay 36 or other models, will the quartz movement always be lesser option, and should one always try to opt-in for the mechanical one? This might differ with the in-houses but the ETA 2824’s and other variants that are still quite common in this price range are hardly rare in this day and time.
TL;DR: Looking for a new watch, loving the Grand Seiko SBGN005 with the 9F quartz but still a bit hesitant to pull the trigger due to the reason that personal bias: quartz = bad, automatic = good. Just wanted to rant out somewhere and hopefully provoke some discussion.

Hey there! As the title suggest, I'm looking for a minimalist type watch and I'm having some trouble. I recently got into watches last year and I've become a little addicted. I've only purchased two so far (a chinese automatic and a seiko SNK793) and I'm looking for something distinct yet casual. I've got my eye on a Brathwait, but I'm unsure about the quality. Here's the link. I'm also looking at a Frederique Constant that I think is gorgeous, but again, I wanted to see if anyone had details on the watch/would like to share their opinions and impressions. I've found one on amazon that's here.
I'm hesitant to pay so much for a quartz movement, but I know that a thin, automatic movement is usually not cheap. Any help deciding or additional watch suggestions would be great!

Im thinking about buying the Invicta pro diver. The 9307 model has a 3 hand swiss movement and the 8926 model a nh35a with 24 jewels.
I've never owned an automatic watch before so that would be fun to have. But is it good compared to the swiss movement? I don't know much about watches that's why I'm asking you.

So it's summed up pretty well in the title... I want to buy a pilot's watch or classic flieger style. Willing to entertain any brand and condition. It must be mechanical or automatic, no interest in quartz. PM me or post what you have.

What difference does it make in the watch?
Thank you for teaching me. I've gradually become more and more interested but I still lack basic knowledge like this.

Hello!
I like a watch that has an audible sound to it (i.e. not just when I put my ear up against the watch). I know it probably depends on the brand or even the particular model, but I'm guessing in general that quartz watches probably have a more audible ticking sound, whereas automatics don't because of the smooth sweeping motion? Although I've seen some automatic/mechanical watches (especially fancy skeleton/open face/tourbillon) where you can definitely still hear everything whirring, even if it's not a "ticking" sound.
I like being reminded that the seconds are slipping away and that I shouldn't waste them! Thanks!

Alright, so I ordered this almost a year ago, so I guess it's time to stop being lazy and share this review of my fabulous Chanel J12 from FatPanda. I started this adventure in purchasing my first rep watch at the start of the pandemic panic (related? perhaps...)
Seller: Tim (FatPanda) via email - contact info
Price: 2,982 CNY (with 7% discount)
Shipping: 546 CNY - total for both the watch and two belts. Belts and watch were shipped separately.
Courier: China EMS (ePacket)
Payment method: Xoom
Order timeline: Inquired on Feb 5, 2020 and paid on Feb 7. I received PSPs on Mar 18. On Mar 20 I received email notification that the watch had been shipped. Cleared U.S. customs on April 30 and arrived in my grubby little hands on May 1.
Photos:
These are recent photos, so you'll see some minor scuffing.
My photos: https://imgur.com/a/Cyb9nCl
PSPs: https://imageshack.com/a/3XRn7/1
Authentic: https://www.chanel.com/us/watches/p/H0968/j12-watch/
I am not a QC expert and I don't live in a city where I could easily walk into a boutique and compare, so I'm reviewing based on the images from the auth site and Google.
Quality: 10/10
The ceramic and the steel triple-folding buckle feel very high quality. I've popped this thing on and off many times and the buckle feels a sturdy as ever.
This is a mechanical automatic watch, so it self-winds. I don't always wind it every day... but even still, pop out the crown and give a few twists and I'm back in business.
Authenticity: 9.3/10
On the front, the text and numbers look quite accurate, both in font, size, thickness, and position.
There are a few noticeable differences from the auth:

• -0.3 The watch face says "J12 automatic". This is closer to the face of the H5700. The numbers in the date window appear similarly to the H5700 as well, unless this image has some blurring that causes the date to appear more bold.
  
• -0.3 The squares at each hour are not as clear as in the auth
  
• -0.1 After some googling, this appears to be the back of the H0968. From this image, it appears the logo on the back of the rep watch is too large. I couldn't find a pic of the buckle, but this is another J12 model, and if the buckle matches the H0968 then it appears the rep's buckle is flipped. Because I don't plan on anyone seeing the back or buckle, I docked only 0.1 points.
  
• I don't really care about the box and can't easily QC it so I've not taken any points off. But my guess is that the "KOR" on the back of the metal box isn't authentic
  

Satisfaction: 10/10
Super happy. It looks fantastic and I've gotten a lot of compliments. A year of on-and-off use and it still looks great.
Seller Rating: 10/10
Tim has a great reputation in the watch community and my transaction with him went very smoothly. This was my second rep purchase ever, and so I was still very much a newbie. Tim walked me through the steps and answered every question and concern I had. He is originally from the U.S. so no translation necessary. Will definitely buy from him again.

Just for clarity, this is 100% general interest, I'm not looking to get into diving. I'm assuming a lot of the features commonly seen on divers- date windows, uneccesary design on the face, even automatic over quartz for accuracy- are typically design rather than practicalities focused, and would make it harder to check the time underwater. Obviously, depth matters, but I'd like to know what else goes into choosing a watch for diving. Is a rotating bezel something you'd actually use, or is it just a gimmick? Is there a go-to, near perfect diving watch? Any info on diving and watches appreciated, even if it's not specifically answering the questions asked here.

Hello everyone !
I've been teasing myself with the idea of creating my own watch and learning how to restore / maintain watches for at least 2 weeks now and I think I'm going to go at it.
Based on a few post I have seen, the esslinger watchmaking fundamental kit is a great tool kit to start with, so I'm probably going with that.
Now I have multiple questions about creating a watch and long term maintaining.
I was probably going to source my parts from Lucius atelier and DLW watches. But I'm wondering what movement I should go for :

• Is there a difficulty difference in maintenance for ETA's, Seiko's or Miyota mouvements?
  
• My dream watch is a JLC master control Calendar with brown strap, what is a dial and case combination I could choose to get close to that ?
  
• I have a Nixon Ranger 45 watch that I can open to learn a bit on, is there any big difference in the process between a automatic and quartz watch ?
  

Are old used watch packs on eBay worth it for training and getting spare parts ?
I know there are a lot of questions here, but thanks in advance for any help and tips !! :)

I just received the delivery of two watches from the Escapement Time official store (type-B automatic flieger and the chronograph quartz flieger). Upon opening the packaging, I found out that BOTH watch boxes were completely empty. I have very little experience with AliExpress, so does anyone have advice on the best way for me to dispute this issue and either get the watches reshaped or get a full refund?

Okay, hi, this is my first post on here but I'm guessing you guys have seen Tommy’s new Lava Ravine ‘Funniest Mob’ video and WilbuCharlie/Slimecicle's bit about their pokemon/yugioh/item battle game in MC. So I figured here was a good place to say that I loved the concept so much I wrote out some maybe playable rules for the game if you guys want to give it a try.
So if you havent yet, def go and watch Tommy’s video on his main channel and second one TommyOutit to get an idea of what I’m going on about first. Also feel free to add on to the rules cause I’m not 100% entirely sure they work completely smoothly just yet.
Anyway, Chesticuffs!! Here’s what I came up with....
BEFORE YOUR START
Before the game begins both players are given a grace period of 15 minutes to collect their decks. You may not spawn in items and both players must begin with an empty inventory. There are virtually no other rules in the collection of items, you may use already collected and chested items prior to the game, but know that more naturally spawning items or a brand new world may be a fairer fight for both players and make the game more enjoyable.
There are several variations of the deck including the veganist, florist, butcher, nether, end, miner and more. The deck is determined by the items collected by the player.
The more rare the items in the Minecraft game the higher the attack power. i.e. diamond is stronger than most foodstuffs however, nether related items can be used to counter strong mine defence as the resources are most difficult to acquire within the grace period.
SET UP
Each player is give and 3x4 grid to work with, within the boundaries of a single Minecraft chest.
There are 4 rows to the game of Chesticuffs, the front “Super Attack” line, the “Attack” line, the “Super Defence” line and the “Defence” line. The core can be placed on any free space on the game board, however, it is recommended to remain in the Super Defence line in order to secure a safe slot for your core and allow you to build a defence.
Items placed on the Super Attack line are buffed x2 that of the Attack line. A similar effect on the Defence and Super Defence lines. In which defence points are gained for the item being on the Super Defence line.
CORE
The player’s health is determined by the strength of their core. The core is essential to game play, the core can be evolved given certain crafting methods and is the heart of the player’s life points. To win the game the other player must either take or destroy the core using strongerarer items of play.
Cores can be moved about the board in any direction to avoid battle. This is the only item that can achieve this and all other placed items cannot be moved once placed on the board.
ATTACKING
Attacking is based largely on your formation of items. Each item is given their own attack and defence strength based around their rarity. Based on the deck and number of items per deck however, even common items such as Wheat Seeds can be buffed when paired with other plants such as flowers or evolved versions of Wheat. Giving it a stronger rarity and thus high attack points.
Take turns targeting different items on your opponent’s side of the field. If your item was more difficult to acquire, ie. if nether quartz was to battle cobblestone, the cobblestone is destroyed and does not return to the player’s hand, thus leaving the chest. This breaks formation as well as is the only way to destroy items from the other player’s hand.
If both items hold the same rarity, ie. if Warped Fungus was to battle Crimson Roots both items are destroyed and return to the player’s hand. It should be noted that items returned to the player by this method can be summoned later for rematches.
DEFENCE
Similar rules apply to defence position items in the back two rows. However, it should be noted that in order to attack the back defence rows of the chest the front two squares of the Attack lines must be cleared first. ie. the attacking item must have a clear line to the back row items to attack them.
Should a defence and attacking item with the same rarity go head to head the defence item will win by default and neither item is destroyed.
Should an attacking item have a higher rarity, the defence is broken and the defence item returns to the players hand and is not destroyed. It can then be summoned back for rematches.
If the defending item has a higher rarity than the opposing attacker, the attacker is destroyed and is removed from the game.
Defence position items cannot attack.
EVOLUTION
Certain items can take advantage of the evolution method. Evolution occurs through the use of crafting or smelting in vanilla furnaces or crafting tables - nothing else. This increases the rarity of the item and boosts it attack and defence points. It should be noted that this method is reserved for the items that have the ability to EVOLVE and not COMBINE. This could be the smelting of cobblestone to stone or the evolution of wheat to hay bales. But cannot include the combination of iron, redstone and wood to form a piston. This cannot be done mid-game but is recommended in the grace period beforehand.
The crafting route of evolution holds no consequence for the player, and thus is the preferred method should a player wish to upgrade their iron ingots to a block for example.
The smelting method however, holds some drawbacks. While indeed creating a rarer item mid-game, it should be noted that in order to smelt you must sacrifice an item within your hand to use as fuel. This is a limitation of miner decks in particular as the use of items such as coal against a vegan deck is already a highly strategised and useful attack formation.
WINNING THE GAME
The game is won if a player’s core is taken or destroyed, if a player no longer holds any items in their hands causing an automatic loss, if both player’s fields hold the same rarity of items creating a standstill or gridlock or if a player surrenders.
The core is destroyed if it is attacked by an opposing item of greater rarity. It is taken automatically if the opposing player’s field contains all items rarer than the defending player.
ITEMS AND RARITIES
Below is a list of categories, they are listed from common to holographic rarity and gives an idea as to the points and rarity scores given to each item. Items to recap are obtained during the grace period, thus the harder it is to obtain the item within 15 minutes the higher the attacking and defensive power of the item in question. Beside each category is the most common and rarest item for each.
Seeds (wheat seeds, melon seeds)
Flowers (rose, peony)
Foodstuffs (wheat, clownfish)
Wood (oak wood, warped/crimson stem)
Earth (dirt, mycelium)
Mined Resources (cobblestone, polished andesite)
Redstone (redstone dust, redstone lamp)
Ores (coal, diamond)
Potions (water bottle/awkward potion, strength potion)
Mob Drops (rotten flesh/bones, ender pearls)
Tools & Weapons (wooden sword/axe/shovel/pick, netherite sword/axe/shovel/pick)
Armour (leather helmet/chestplate/leggings/boots, netherite helmet/chestplate/leggings/boots)
Enchants (power, looting - books or items enchanted with said enchants are acceptable)
Nether (netherack, netherite)
End (end stone, elytra)

No incentives given for this review. I just wanted to (over)share.
I kinda fell headfirst down the rep rabbithole! Family photo of loot. It started while looking at the JUC with diamonds in the Cartier shop, with every intention to purchase it right there. However, the price difference between the non-diamond vs diamond version gave me pause. Those are MINISCULE diamonds and they want to upcharge how much??
Taking more time to think about this matter, I decided I needed more reference photos and googled 'small juc review' that night. Lo and behold, a review of this item from repladies was the first hit. I was flabbergasted that this sort of thing was possible, and done SO well.
I immediately contacted WenZhi based on that review, and the rest is... a slippery slope. Here's the timeline:
11/11 - Chat up WenZhi, he doesn't accept Paypal so I gotta go through the bank.
11/18 - Payment confirmed for JUC after bank fussing. WenZhi lets me know it'll be about 20 days.
11/22 - While waiting for item to be made, stalk Repladies for more eyecandy, accidentally stumble upon Reptime... oh boy.
11/24 - Contact Anna for some of those tasty watches. Immediately sent payment for Ballon Bleu 33mm since she accepts Paypal F&F. This happened after midnight and I'm wondering if lack of sleep is making me impulsive. Keep browsing photos of BB reviews until I pass out.
11/25 - Anna delivers!! Feeding my greedy eyes with beautiful, beautiful PSPs. I immediately GL because I want it, like, yesterday.
11/26 - As if I didn't know better, I went browsing through Anna's other albums way past my bedtime and aggressively impulse-buy a Datejust.
11/30 - BALLON BLEU ARRIVES (33mm, via EMS post)! That very same night, WenZhi sends PSPs and I'm just giddy. Instant GL because I have no chill.
12/1 - Anna sends PSPs for Datejust! Looks better than example photos, so I GL even though there's some issues (more on this later).
12/3 - Package from WenZhi arrives?! Wow that was quick (SF Express). I can't stop myself from ordering one more BB from Anna, in 28mm this time. Do you see how slippery this rabbit hole gets?! They're just like one message away from sending you fine things at reasonable prices.
12/4 - Datejust arrives (via EMS) from Anna, it looks BETTER than the PSPs!
12/5 - PSPs for BB28 arrive while I'm out taking a stroll, instant GL without even looking through them because my BB33 was so amazing. I trust their QC.
12/10 - Oohhh the BB28 is delivered! And now I can finally post this review.

RG SM JUC w/diamonds ($850 shipped)

Auth | Factory | PSP | Mine
If Cartier just charged a bit less for their silly diamonds, I would've bought auth that day and never found this world.
Quality - 10/10
It's real gold and diamonds, what can I say. White, sparkly diamonds, high-polish gold. Top notch. I don't feel like I'd be getting additional value by going auth.
Accuracy - 9.75/10
Good Stuff:

• Pretty much exactly how I remember the one I tried on was like.
• Size (15) is accurate.
• RG color is beautiful and subtle, matches auth pieces because why wouldn't it, same material (RG does fade with time, so when comparing a new RG to an older piece expect it to be rosier).
• Groove markings, diamond sizes, and nail tips all look accurate to me.
• Springy enough to click shut, like auth.
• Engraving starts at the right place, in the correct font and neat.

Bad Stuff:

• The part connecting to the head is slightly messy. (-0.25) This is literally the ONLY flaw after going over it with a loupe, and it's minor. You can't see it when worn.

Other Stuff:

• This is quite a light bracelet (as is the auth), since it's hollow wire inside. Very comfortable to wear.
• I asked if it was possible to modify the design so it wasn't a rip-off, but was told no. Just as well, I'm pretty happy with it as is.

Satisfaction - 10/10
They've literally NAILED this piece, it's a steal. I have no desire to buy the auth, because this IS real to me - a real 18k gold and diamond bangle that does a bang-up job decorating my wrist. I'd feel 100% comfortable walking into Cartier with it on.
Also, another thing worth noting -- while this bangle is stronger than the Tiffany T wire (those are ALWAYS bent out of alignment, even the new ones in-store), it still is possible to bend out of shape by nature of the design. So far I've worn this nonstop since I got it, sleeping/showering, catching it on sweaters, flipping it the wrong way, and nothing happened yet. I've seen a few reviews where it got bent, though (including auth), so just keep that in mind. I still think it's worth the risk, especially at this price!

Ballon Bleu 33mm ($139 shipped)

Auth | Factory | PSP | Mine
This is a watch that's always been on my radar, but I didn't like it $$$$ enough to ever seriously consider buying. However, I do like it $$$ enough, hell yeah!
Quality - 10/10
The watch came in a Chanel box, labeled as a bag. Complete with cute Chanel ribbon and bow (testament to all the bags Anna must sell). Watch itself was wrapped securely in some nice, thick plastic, the good stuff, the stuff expensive stuff gets wrapped in.
I'm COMPLETELY SHOCKED at the quality of this watch for the price. Comparing to my nice, authentic, $$$$ watch (and also my parents' $$$$$ watches), I'm not seeing much difference between them. It is worlds better than my Seiko (supposedly a great 'bang for buck' brand) in the same price range, at least on the outside.
Accuracy - 9.5/10
Good Stuff:

• Uses imported Swiss Ronda quartz, reliable workhorse that should last quite a few years.
• The bracelet is weighty, solid, satisfying.
• The sapphire glass is perfectly domed, high quality, and distorts light when bent at an angle (like auth).
• Cabochon and hands are a nice shade of blue.
• The clasp is smooth and easy with a nice click.
• Hidden 'Cartier' signature is well aligned, neat and thin. Looks just like part of the V from a distance. I think they do this better than AF, which uses a thicker font. From a distance, V6F is much closer to gen in this regard. Comparison pic
• 'Swiss Made' in correct position, legible.
• Guilloche nice and shiny and neat. Beautiful finish.
• The shape is perfect, soothing and just a joy to rub.
• I feel really posh when I wear it.

Bad Stuff:

• 'Swiss Made' is a bit wavier than some auth, but this is super tiny font. (-0.25)
• If I'm gonna nitpick, the hidden 'Cartier' signature could be more centered between the V and I. It's just a smidge too far from the V. Mind you it's even smaller than 'Swiss Made', so this is not an issue unless you're taking macro photos to resell as auth (tsk tsk). (-0.25)
• Logo on back is etched instead of engraved (not as deep). Who cares about the back though?! No points deducted.

Other Notes:

• Face color is a little bronzy in some lighting. Some older auths are also this way but if you prefer whiter faces try AF.

Beware! While researching auths, I noticed many so-called auths on consignment sites also had these tells. They were being (successfully) sold for $2500-5000! :( Basically this rep stands up to scrutiny, enough to fool serious buyers unaware of the rep market. I'd confidently wear it anywhere (and never resell it as an auth!).
Satisfaction - 10/10
I'm suuuuper satisfied with this purchase. It is a lot of watch for the money, regardless of rep or not. Finishing is excellent, just really beyond my expectations. I love how flat and pebble-y this watch is, the smoothness is addictive to touch. Gotta hand it to Cartier for their sleek designs. Husband doesn't like it because he claims it's too big for my wrist, but he only likes me wearing watches for ants. This is REALLY comfortable to wear!
People have said this watch is NWBIG (not worth buying in gen), and I concur with this assessment. We are completely spoiled having this option as a rep (and at this price!!), they did a really great job.
I forgot to ask Anna to adjust the size before she sent it, but it was no problem taking it to a local watch shop and getting a few links removed (cost $3.50).

Datejust 28mm ($261 shipped)

Auth (doesn't come in 28mm anymore) | Factory | PSP | Mine
Nearly double the price of the BB, but I had much lower expectations since I've seen 0 reviews of the factory (GSF) for any watches. The combination of diamond dial + fluted bezel is what my dad always wore, so it would be fun to match. Even from the example photos I could tell the fluted bezel was too large and the date was badly off-center. BUT this is a sentimental piece so whatever!
My dad wanted to buy me a Rolex so I've tried on a bunch at the AD, but they were all just 'OK'. And since that's not the kind of feeling you try to buy with $$$$$, I turned down his kind offer. While not personally a fan of Rolex designs (boring?), it makes me feel closer to my dad who I rarely see now.
Quality - 10/10
Oh my god? It's way better in person than in photos?! What is this sorcery?!?!? From the photos I expected a toy since it looked too shiny, bezels too big, etc. In person though it looks absolutely fine? All the details are there and done with care.
Accuracy - 9.5/10
Good Stuff:

• It's automatic using a rep of the actual Datejust movement (2235), so not only does the second hand sweep at auth frequency (4Hz) but the way you set it is the same too. It's very fun to set.
• Pretty dial, nice texture.
• Cyclops zoom looks about right to me.
• Rolex written around rehaut is accurate.
• Even has the hidden serial number and nearly invisible crown at 6 o'clock.
• Solid, comfy bracelet, smooth links. Easy to open yet secure clasp, a joy to use.
• Crown logos, etc are immaculate.

Bad Stuff:

• Fluted bezel seems a touch large, or angled slightly too flat. Honestly it could be my eyes playing tricks, and it's just the different material under lighting (mine is SS not gold as it should be, so it looks 'harder'). (-0.25)
• For about half an hour before midnight, the date starts rolling over slowly. Real Rolex should just instantly flip the date at 12, so this is a huge callout if anyone looks at it at 11:30 PM~ (-0.25)
• Datewheel numbers not centered, and a bit thin. Apparently Rolex has variations on the thickness (according to Gamma_NZ at Reptime), and I see auth with offcenter date, so no points deducted.

I pointed out to Anna that the Datewheel numbers weren't centered, but still GL since that's how it is in the factory photos. In person, it's actually a lot better than the factory example! Still leans a little to the top and left, but not at all obvious.
Other Notes:

• I thought 'Datejust' font was SLIGHTLY too tall/wide, but realized I was comparing it to 31mm and up. The rare photos of 28s I found all matched; this dial is on-point.
• Same with the BB28, can't tell CZs are not diamonds. They just give off a little sparkle.

Overall this is actually a more solid rep than I'd bargained for.
Satisfaction - 10/10
I expected a sentimental fun toy that wouldn't pass at all, but it exceeded that by miles. This might be GS Factory's first (english?) review, and I'm giving them a 10/10. Here I thought good reps of smaller watches (other than BB) didn't exist since I've never seen them reviewed... Anna has just about all the dial options, too.
Anna did remove a few links as requested, still ended up loose but no big deal, took it back to the same watchshop that adjusted my BB33 earlier ($3.50 again). At this point I feel bad letting him assume it's gen, he was kinda reverent with it, but how do I just blurt out "it's a rep!!" when he didn't even ask?
This watch has plenty of competition for time on my wrist, but I reach for it surprisingly often. The date is just so useful to have! This makes me reconsider Rolex despite the thick old-fashioned case; maybe I would enjoy owning an auth one day.
Best bang for buck (and imo more stylish) will still be the quartz BBs though, at over $100 cheaper. However, if you value mechanical movements and/or just like Rolex, these are actually so great.

Ballon Bleu 28mm ($156 shipped)

Auth | Factory | PSP | Mine
Ok seriously this was just me binging on BBs because I loved my 33mm so much. This is the last to arrive so I've only had it an hour as I'm writing this post, but so far it's my least favorite of the watches. It's undeniably beautiful, but I wish the bracelet was a tad thinner to match the smaller face size. I feel like the proportions on the 33mm is better, and the thinner bracelet on the Rolex is daintier.
Quality - 10/10
Same as its 33mm big sis, the 28mm doesn't fail to disappoint. Great finish, solid materials, much attention to detail. The color of the RG is good too, not at all fake or overdone. However, I prefer the brushed middle link on the 33mm to the shiny finish on the 28mm. Just personal preference.
Accuracy - 8/10
Good Stuff:

• Everything good about the 33mm.
• Face is whiter than the 33mm, which goes nicely with the 'diamonds'.
• CZ markers cut well, spaced evenly.
• 'Swiss Made' is actually pretty neat, even under loupe.

Bad Stuff:

• The 'C' on Cartier is a little lower. It's obvious when placed next to my BB33. I have to deduct more points because it's hard to miss once spotted, a shame since the rest of the watch is so nice. (-1.75)
• Well the RG color is still gonna be a bit more coppery than real 18k, and won't have the lustre of gold. (-0.25)

Other Notes:

• I asked if the CZ could be swapped for lab diamonds and the answer was no. :'( However! I actually can't tell the difference at this size anyway. I thought I might since I own lots of jewelry but, no. I would not go for fake bling on the outside of a watch, since it oxidizes and easily turns dull, but on the inside will last quite a good while. I have old fashion watches with CZ inside which still blings on.
• Anna again helped me remove a few links, but was still 1 link too big.

Satisfaction - 9/10
Once I noticed the C was a bit low I couldn't fully enjoy it, since it's right there on the face of the watch in bold. Can't unsee it. It's still a great model for helping me test the waters and figure out what I really want in a watch, otherwise I'd always wonder.
Now I know for sure the 28mm BB is not for me, because I like either dainty or solid watches, and this falls into neither camp. The face is dainty, but the bracelet is as thick and tall as the 33mm. It's like, make up your mind! Perhaps it'd do better on a leather strap but I prefer metal bracelets. It also helped me realize I just don't like two-tone bracelets (my mom loves it on me so this is really preference).
I think it's amazing we can get nearly 1:1 reps to wear around the house and judge at leisure instead of making up our minds on the spot in the shop, under bright lights while people wait on you.

Seller Service and Communication - 10/10

WenZhi: Friendly, professional, easy to communicate with. I like the gloves whoever takes the PSPs is wearing, makes it feel extra fancy.
Anna: Will probably "ok dear" and "honey" you a lot, professional, easy communication. Sends nice high-def photos + vids (as you can see from the PSPs), and happy to send more for any reason.
Both sellers don't rest and are responsive 7 days a week. O_O Quick to ship with secure packaging. 10/10 would recommend and buy from again (and again).

Overall Satisfaction 100/10

This was a tough time and all the researching/review reading/squinting at comparison photos until passing out late into the mornings really helped take my mind off real life. Luxury brands are selling ~the dream at a price unaffordable to most peasants, but reps make dreams reality and it's fun! Saving up for a grail piece is also exciting, but reps help me determine better what actually is worth buying and will fit my life.
For example, when I first tried on Rolex at the AD years ago, and when I wore the rep Rolex on day 1, I couldn't stop thinking it looks so old-fashioned and it's so not my style. But somehow, around day 3 or 4, when I realized I kept choosing it over my other watches, I'm like... yes. I could get used to this. I can actually see this as a watch I'd wear 24/7, as my dad does, so... that's how I'm saving up for a Rolex now, thanks replife...!
On the other hand I will never get the auth JUC with diamonds, or even the BBs, because I can't sense any further value. YMMV if you love the history of the brand though!
At first I thought I'd enjoy these less than auth, sort of like when I purchase costume jewelry and they end up being a waste of space since wearing them brings me no joy. BUT this is actually not that! These items possess the quality to backup the look and DO make me feel all fancy pants.

Ratings and Assessments Summary

Item	Pics	Price	W2C	Quality	Accuracy	Satisfaction
RG SM JUC w/diamonds	PSP / Mine	$850	TS WenZhi	10/10	9.75/10	10/10
Ballon Bleu 33mm	PSP / Mine	$139	TS Anna	10/10	9.5/10	10/10
Datejust 28mm	PSP / Mine	$261	TS Anna	10/10	9.5/10	10/10
Ballon Bleu 28mm	PSP / Mine	$156	TS Anna	10/10	8/10	9/10

I’ve noticed that this sub has a good majority of individuals who are relatively new to the watch game. If you are one of those people, congrats! Welcome to one of the best hobbies ever! It may be kind of stressful for some of you when you’re trying to build up a collection and getting yourself into the hobby on the right foot, and in a remote world, it’s hard to find guidance. So I’m doing my part into helping new enthusiasts get into the hobby of watch collecting!
Step one- buying your first proper watch. Any watch enthusiasts will tell you exactly what watch got them into collecting, mines was a watch from the fashion brand Guess. Now although that watch is not highly respected upon enthusiasts, it still got me into the hobby. Here’s a few tips on how to buy your first proper watch.
The don’ts -Avoid fashion brands at all cost (Guess, Calvin Klein, Daniel Wellington etc.) -Avoid companies that make claims like, “cutting out the middle man,” or,” affordable luxury.” These watches are worse than the fashion brands (MVMT, Vincero, etc.) -Avoid Kickstarter companies. -Avoid buying large watches (44mm and above.) -Avoid buying watches with “bling” (Nico has obviously told you this one) -Don’t buy a Hublot. -Steer clear of vintage for your first watch, they’re normally very fragile and cost a lot to repair (unless it was handed down to you.) -Don’t buy watches from non-reputable sources. -Don’t buy a watch as an investment unless you’re a seller. You buy a watch to wear, not lock up in a safe. -Don’t listen to what other people say about your watch, If you like it then their opinion doesn’t mean a thing. -NEVER buy fakes!! -Lastly, don’t buy a Hublot....again.
The Do’s -Buy from reputable brands and sellers. -Look up the watch and it’s reviews before buying. -Measure your wrist size and figure out what size watches best suit you (38mm is the best bet for anyone.) -If possible, try it on, and see how you like it. -Buy a watch based on what clothes you wear (example, If you wear a lot of lighter colors, buy a lighter colored watch.) -Buy a watch based on what you’re going to use it for (dress, casual, sport, etc.) -Buy from sellers that offer a warranty. -Look up what kind of movement it has. -Lastly, buy a Casio.
Mechanical vs Quartz movements As previously mentioned, you should always look up what kind of movement a watch has, here’s a guide to help you figure out which one you like.
Mechanical- mechanical movements have a nice sweep to the second hand. Instead of using a battery, it uses kinetic energy to power the watch via winding. Automatic watches are mechanical watches that wind themselves as you wear it, whereas a Manual watch requires you to wind it yourself. I personally prefer these over quartz however when they break they cost a ton to repair, and normally require a service every 5 or so years. A repair can cost well over $100, and in some cases, more than the watch is worth. If you want a Mechanical watch for a good price, look into Seiko, or Orient.
Quartz- quartz watches have a second hand that ticks every second instead of a sweep. These are better for people who normally don’t wear their watch every day and prefer it to keep accurate time. Quartz watches are cheaper to work on and fix since mostly you’ll just have to change the battery, however they’re not as interesting or engaging as the beauty and craftsmanship behind a mechanical movement. If you want a good quartz watch for a good price, look no further than the Citizen Eco- Drive family.
A brand for every price- Watch collecting is an expensive hobby, be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars in order to get started with your collection, however I promise you, as a young 20 year old enthusiast. it’s very VERY well worth it. Here’s a few great watches for lower budgets.
$20-50- Timex WeekendeExpedition. Any Casio. $50-100- Seiko 5, Vostok Amphibia. $100-200- Orient Bambino, Orient Ray/MAKO II, More seiko 5’s, Citizen Navihawk/Eco Drive. $200-300- Any kind of Seiko, Tissot, and Orient. $300-$500- Better quality Seiko’s, Tissot, Orient Star, Hamilton, and Alpina.
I really hope this helped a few of you out. Taking on watch collecting can be a bit intimidating, but I promise you it’s a hobby worth getting into. I’ve made so many connections over the years through watches, so many conversations with fellow enthusiasts, and just the pure joy of just wearing a piece of art on your wrist has kept me into this hobby for 4 years. I still have a very long way to go, I have yet to get a Rolex, but I also need to graduate college first! I know we all hope to build a collection one day, and I’m sure Nico will help us source out our dream watches when we desire them.
Please feel free to comment more advice and I’ll add it to the list!
Thank you, Nico and the Pride and Pinion family, for bringing the love of watches into the mainstream!
Ok, ciao.

I have way too many non-dress watches and would like a "special occasion" watch.
Budget: $50-$400 (or a tiny bit more if it's really worth it).
Case: All stainless steel, no "base metal" or gold plate.
Movement: Would prefer quartz or solar, otherwise automatic is fine, but would not wear much so setting it all the time would be a pain.
Strap: a dress watch, so no stainless or silicone bracelet, would prefer brown/black leather or canvas/nylon/etc.
Brand: Would prefer a "well known" brand like Casio, Seiko, Tissot, etc, but would not mind a lesser known brand, as long as it's not "junk".
Other: Something "elegant" looking, so no chronographs. Day/date is fine.
Used: Would not mind buying a used one as long as it's something made within the past 20 years. So if you know of any $700-$1200 dress watches that can be had for $400 or less used.
Thanks!